目前日期文章:200512 (9)

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17/12/2005
接著,在海德堡(Heidelberg),我們看到德國第一所大學(1386)矗立在一整排矮小的Christmas Markt之中....
天氣很冷,我們卻不時因為街上一群群清唱或者樂器演奏聖誕歌曲的年輕人前面駐足



等我們開到斯圖嘉特(Stuttgart)時,天色已暗.我們只能在Christmas Markt逛逛.
對我來說,這個Christmas Markt最特別的地方,在於那不停飄落的雪花...
是之前從來沒有體驗過的. 好像也因為下雪,這個Christmas markt配上熱騰騰的Gluhwein,
-6度寒風中特別溫暖...

(也感謝負責開車的人滴酒不沾,以及Dora的照片有拍到雪花)


19/12/2005
Stuttgart火車三個小時,到達瑞士的蘇黎世.我和Coco約在這邊見面...
在蘇黎世火車站裡,高大,鑲滿Swarovski施洛華世奇水晶的聖誕樹讓我倆忘了其他的Christmas markt攤位...

聖誕老人駕駛的聖誕車,在蘇黎世街上


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03/12/2005
Siegburg是一個離波昂四十分鐘的小鎮,經過同事的推薦,我和外國人軍團在一個難得晴天的週六下午搭
U-Bahn抵達.毋需地圖,毋需導遊,我們下了車就跟著人群走,兩分鐘後到達市中心.



小城果然不大,市中心的廣場只需十分鐘步行即可穿越. 沿著廣場邊緣搭著一個個攤位.我才晃然大悟為何同事推薦



整個christmas markt都是穿著中世紀服裝打扮的攤販,聽說他們也使用古德語.但因為我跟本聽不懂德語,所以攤販還是用"現代英語"跟我交談


飲料攤除了賣Gluewein之外,也賣一種特殊的蜂蜜熱酒. Meth.






麵包師傅

食物攤仍然大排長龍,我們食指大動, 嘗試了一種手工麵條. 收費方式和飲料一樣.先收取盤子的押金,如果喜歡,便可以以三歐的代價帶走自己食用過的盤子,不然就退回盤子取回押金.
而叉子則是薄木裁成的.現在變成我的書籤.



鐵匠

我們宛如走在一個living museum,看著各種穿著打扮的攤販.其實就連攤販也和之前看到的不太一樣.
有木匠現場雕刻木頭,販賣皮革牛角的, 打鐵的用腳上上下下踩著生火的熱爐,也有像哈利波特的老校長穿著的巫師




戴著眼鏡(破功)的木匠

日本女生miyako忍不住問了也開始逛起markt的古裝人,衣服是不是他們自己作的,
他們笑著說也是買的啦

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科隆大教堂我還沒有進去過,卻去了三次科隆的聖誕市集,兩次pub和兩次跟蚊子見面。不愧是大城市,光聖誕市集就有五處。週日的科隆教堂前面廣場前面,摩肩擦踵,車水馬龍,每個人都以小碎步前進,還有一大堆法國人。


最吸引我目光的當屬胡桃鉗娃娃。所有精緻的聖誕樹以及馬槽裝飾品我都已經看膩,卻還沒有看夠這些色彩豔麗,身繪各種服飾的胡桃鉗娃娃,我一直很好奇有沒有人真的捨得把胡桃鉗娃娃拿來開胡桃。不過每一尊都很貴,我只買得起掛在聖誕樹上那種裝飾大小的胡桃鉗,所以後來想想還是算了。

蚊子告訴我,另外還有一種吹煙娃娃也在台灣造成流行,木頭製的娃娃嘴巴以及身體某些部位有洞,將特殊的香點燃放入,就會有煙從娃娃口中、煙斗中冒出。

櫥窗內的胡桃鉗娃娃


除了前一篇說的飲料攤位,聖誕市集的攤位還分成四大種:
一、舞台:每一個聖誕市集都會搭起舞台,偶爾有些表演,或者讓小孩子上台參與遊戲。不過因為我都聽不懂,所以也沒有留意。

二、熱食:這些受歡迎的攤位,是大家逛累了最無法招架的攤位。從可麗餅到德國傳統路邊攤「德國sausage夾麵包」到炒麵等應有盡有,但是卻不便宜,所以我從不敢靠近。

三、聖誕節應景:這個種類可就多了。從木頭雕刻品到毛線帽、聖誕帽,到蠟燭、玩具、陶製品等、餅乾,聖誕薑餅甜心。

(左圖)玩具攤位,木製玩具精緻可愛
(右圖)christmas markt一角


四、異國紀念品:就我看過的攤位,至少有俄國、日本、中國、英國等。跟聖誕節沒有關係,但是不過本著觀光客來德國就是要照德國的東西,所以我一張都沒有照。

最後再來一張教堂跟聖誕樹的照片吧!

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(左圖)其中一個飲料攤的屋頂
(右圖)孤單的貝多芬和市集的遊樂設施

今年的聖誕節,最特別的應該屬之前在尼斯或巴黎沒有瞧過的「聖誕市集」(Christmas Markt)。我只有從狐大的blog看過史特拉斯堡的聖誕市集,但現在我猜是因為史堡靠近德國的關係。自十一月中旬,波昂市徒步區搭起一間間小木屋攤位,率先為聖誕節的購物潮揭開序幕,破天荒地週末也營業,天天如此直到聖誕夜前夕。

我秉著觀光客心態,硬是走訪了超過五個城市的聖誕市集,其中波昂更是一個禮拜超過兩次,距離火車二十分鐘的科隆也逛了三次,結集了這次聖誕市集特別報導,希望大家也能圖片感受德國這邊濃濃低聖誕氣氛啦!

老實說,聖誕市集有一點像我們的迪化年貨大街,相同的是那種濃濃過節氣氛,一家接著一家的店面,大家下了班,或週末,有事沒事都可以呼朋引伴逛逛:賣熱酒的攤位,讓大家逛累的冷的暖身。與年貨大街不同的則是,聖誕市集就我觀察不是採買聖誕禮物的好場合,頂多是讓大家嘗鮮,或者賣些稀奇古怪、聖誕節應景的東西,價格也不比平常店家便宜,所以我只看大家摸摸弄弄,買的人卻不多。而我們到年貨大家雖然也是到處試吃,但是主要目的還是得買「年貨」回去。

白天的聖誕市集

通常當地人提到聖誕市集最先想到,可能就是—熱酒,這也是聖誕市集重複率最高,卻也最熱門的攤位。一種加熱的葡萄飲料和紅酒加熱的Glühwein,裝在聖誕襪造型的馬克杯裡,酒和押「杯」費一共3.5歐,如果想要保留杯子,喝完就不需要退回杯子,把押金1.5歐取回。也因此,每個攤位,甚至每個城市都有不同造型的聖誕酒馬克杯,也真的有瘋子到處喝酒收集不同顏色或造型的杯子。

不過言歸正傳,走在冷颼颼的聖誕市集中,就是這種熱酒可以快速暖身。也因此逛街時,看到一群人大聲唱歌或叫囂,一點兒也不需要訝異,因為他們邊逛邊喝,已經醉了。

晚上的christmas markt氣氛濃厚, 在飲料攤位前大家人手一杯Glühwein

老實說,雖然這種熱酒很熱門,我卻沒有那麼喜歡它的味道。畢竟已經習慣酒冷著喝,忽然要我喝熱的,還有肉桂味道,就好像要習慣紅豆在沙拉冷盤中的外國人,喝熱熱甜甜紅豆湯是一樣的道理。因此喝這個酒不是因為真的很冷,貪圖喝完之後的後勁,不然就是因為大夥一起點一樣的,不好意思不合群啦!


外國人軍團: (左至右) 日本,土耳其,捷克,墨西哥,美國,比利時,肯亞


此圖無說明

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最近這邊的trainee email group發生了一些討論.波蘭的Kasia說她不知道聖誕老人的國籍,但他絕不會是土耳其人.

想來也對,土耳其是回教國家,沒有過聖誕節的傳統習俗.我就當她開個玩笑.沒想到土耳其女生Zuhal跳出來,發了一封很長的email,解釋聖誕老人當時的歷史背景,以及聖誕老人的故事.滿有趣的呢,貼上來跟大家分想一下:

關於聖尼可拉斯所在的安那托利亞,也就是今天土耳其的位置,簡單的改朝換代史如下:

History says that Santa Claus lived around 200 AD. And I want to give you a short clarification of Anatolia's History to find out his nationality:

Anatolia is one of the oldest continually inhabited regions in the world, and it has repeatedly served as a battleground for foreign powers. The earliest major empire in the area was that of the HITTITES(西臺王國), from the 18th through the 13th century BC. Subsequently, the Phrygians (see PHRYGIA), an Indo-European people, achieved ascendancy until their kingdom was destroyed by the CIMMERIANS in the 7th century BC. The most powerful of Phrygia's successor states was LYDIA. Coastal Anatolia (IONIA) meanwhile was settled by Greeks. The entire area was overrun by the Persians during the 6th and 5th centuries and fell to Alexander the Great in 334 BC. Anatolia was subsequently divided into a number of small Hellenistic kingdoms (including BITHYNIA, CAPPADOCIA, PERGAMUM, and PONTUS), all of which had succumbed to Rome by the mid-1st century BC. In AD 324 the Roman emperor CONSTANTINE I chose Constantinople (君士坦丁堡), now Istanbul, as the capital of the Roman Empire. It subsequently became the capital of the Eastern Roman or BYZANTINE EMPIRE (拜占庭帝國).

In 1055 a group of Central Asiatic Turks(不知道是中國文獻中被稱為丁零、高車、鐵勒、突厥、回紇的那一支), the SELJUKS(塞爾柱王朝), conquered Baghdad and established a Middle Eastern and Anatolian empire. When this empire was broken up by the Mongol invasion(成吉思汗等人的西征), one of the remaining local powers became known as the Ottoman dynasty, after its leader OSMAN I. The OTTOMAN EMPIRE(鄂圖曼帝國) spread from northwestern Anatolia and captured Constantinople in 1453. At the peak of their power the Ottomans controlled much of the eastern Mediterranean. The Ottomans had a sophisticated system of internal administration and also organized the first standing army in Europe.

As the Ottoman Empire began to collapse under its own weight in the 18th and 19th centuries, it became a battleground for rival European powers, wedged as it was between the Russian and Austrian empires(奧匈帝國). By the outbreak of World War I the Ottoman Empire had essentially been divided into spheres of influence by the great European powers, but a reform movement was active within the Ottoman Empire itself. The YOUNG TURKS brought about a revolution in 1908 and were successful in introducing civil and social reforms of far-reaching consequence.

In 1922, however, the Turks, led by Mustafa Kemal (later known as Kemal ATATURK,我們當時讀到的土耳其國父凱末爾) and Ismet INONU, defeated the armies occupying Anatolia. Inonu then won what has been called "the greatest diplomatic victory in history" when the Treaty of Lausanne(洛桑條約) recognized the Republic of Turkey.


聖誕老人的故事 The story of Santa Claus:

Most people know that our Santa Claus today originated from St. Nicholas, but the derivation of the Santa Claus story comes from many sources. In fact, since the Catholic church in 1969 demoted St. Nicholas from his official saintly status-as there were no records of his having been canonized-the original legend of this third century Turkish bishop is not very widely recognized as part of our Christmas celebration.

Nicholas was born into a wealthy family living in Patera, in the south of Turkey. Legend claims that on the church's fast days, Wednesdays and Fridays, the infant Nicholas nursed only after sundown.

Just one of many stories demonstrating his holy reputation is about an angel who appeared to the cardinal appointing a new bishop for the Turkish town of Mira, with a face bright like the sun, who told the cardinal to ordain the 30-year old Nicholas.

Through his priesthood in the early Christian faith, even while alive he came to be recognized for his generosity to all those in trouble. In his good-doing role as priest, one story tells of Nicholas, who took pity on a girl in his parish whose family had no dowry. Had Nicholas not intervened, this would have prevented her from marrying. He made a parcel of money from his family's coffers and donated it anonymously to the young woman and her future by throwing it in through the open window, where it is said to have landed in her stocking. This type of event occurred more than once, and Nicholas became known for late night gifts, and the granting of wishes.

A miracle of his legacy is the story of three young students who were robbed and dismembered on their way home from school, and stuffed in a pickle barrel. Nicholas is said to have appeared out of nowhere, and the boys arose at his command, intact.

In 314 A.D., at the Council of Nicea, the Emperor Constantine brought up the question of whether Christ was divine. During the arguments on the subject, Nicholas is reported to have slapped a doubting priest.

Once the story of his deeds spread, he became widely known for helping those in trouble: lawyers and their clients, pawnbrokers, and sailors, as he was invoked to calm turbulent seas. And he became the patron saint of children. From his tomb, a viscous myrrh-like material oozed and was used by pilgrims as an ointment, to heal sickness. By 1082, his body was removed from where it was initially interred in Turkey, and moved to Bari, Italy by grave robbing sailors, and a cathedral was built there in his name. For centuries there were more churches in the middle ages named after him than all the apostles, and next to Christ and the Virgin Mary, St. Nicholas was the next most popular figure in Christianity. In a French village during the 12th century, local nuns honoured their patron on December 6, which became St. Nicholas Day. The nuns delivered candy to all the children who'd been good, leaving it for them in their shoes, and leaving switches in those of the naughtier children. Because they seemed to cover so much territory, some began to say it was St. Nicholas himself who delivered the gifts.

By medieval times Nicholas had become the most beloved patron saint of Europe, and through the Middle Ages, the story of Christmas in Europe developed to combine religious and pagan myths.

German culture told of the ancient god Voden, the mystical sky rider who would pass judgment over villages to determine who did well, and who did not. In the 16th century reformation, Martin Luther's strong Protestant church banned St. Nicholas, denouncing his popularity as a saint because it rivaled the worship of Jesus.

When Luther created the Protestant church, he realized it would be necessary to wean German children off of St. Nick, so he created Krist Kindle, the winged Christ cherub, who also flew and brought gifts to good children-but which instead focused the celebration around Christ. He came on Christmas Eve at Christ's birthday, which more closely coincides with the Winter Solstice, around which pagan religion celebrated the return of the Sun's light.


In England the myth developed around Father Christmas, and in France, Pere Noël. Italy's old hag Bafana, out looking for the Christ child, left gifts in her wake for other kids. The gnome Tompten was Sweden's figure, and in the U.S., Martin Luther's Krist Kindle became Kris Kringle.

It was Dutch sailors who came to the New World and would not give up St. Nicholas as their patron; when they settled, particularly around the New York area, their nickname Santer Klause became the name we know as Santa Claus.

In early colonial times around the American Revolution, the new American culture embraced most all that was not British, and so took on the Dutch Christmas celebration honoring their beloved St. Nick. Washington Irving gave the Dutch culture prominence in his "Knickerbocker Tales," which he wrote for the New York newspaper press. He mentions St. Nicholas over two dozen times in his chronicle, and it is from these writings that the original story "A Visit from St. Nicholas," better known as "The Night Before Christmas," was conceived. The poem came to Clement Clark one night before Christmas when he was riding in a horse and carriage through the snowy streets of New York City, and so went home and wrote it for his children.

St. Nick came to be depicted as a jolly man in the more familiar red suit and white beard, and Harper's Weekly publisher Thomas Nast printed drawings that brought these images to the public. By this time, St. Nicholas' bishop's staff had become the more pagan candy cane. Other popular writers in the 1800s also published variations of the Santa Claus story, and by the 1890s, the first department store Santa's had emerged. By the 20th century, Santa Claus was here to stay!

延伸閱讀:
1. Sait Nicholas: Discovering the truth of Santa Claus : 有包括三十個國家慶祝聖誕節的傳統
2. Wikipedia: Treaty of Lausanne
3. 土耳其簡介
4. 無名blog地球男孩的世界: 土耳其難解的種族糾紛


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請耐心等待文章以及照片出現


蘇黎世一景

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10/12/2005
先上圖片,文字部份下週再補上啊!!!






























答案就是Robbie Williams出現在公司的xmas party中...
好啦,細節再跟大家報告啦
我回去了











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公司本週五在大廳辦耶誕派對,還大費周張要有前置報名手續
而且是偷偷發email邀請函給員工,要大家上活動網頁上報名

我明明是小實習生,那為什麼我會知道勒??

公司通常給外部員工或者實習生的email地址是firstname.lastname@external.xxxx.net
偏偏我一到公司,IT部門給我的email地址是kuan.huang@xxxx.de
看起來好像我是正式員工一樣.
這在對外連絡上佔了些便宜,因為對方會以為我是正式員工,也不清楚我的職稱
現在妙啦,連公司內部這封只對員工發放的耶誕email我也收到了

報名手續簡單
連上活動網頁,填上自己姓名,部門和email就好.(這時候,如果email後面有external的話根本無此選項)
接著這週要去櫃台憑員工狗牌領入場門票

雖然我的員工狗牌上沒有我的名字和照片,一看就知道是臨時工
但也許也有許多正式員工證上沒照片吧,
小姐只要求我出示有我名字跟照片的證件

因此,我憑著我的護照領到門票.
那麼這個派對到底有什麼希奇的勒???
我看這邊先賣個關子

下週一再出示照片告訴大家
我為什麼是幸運的漏網之魚吧!

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我實在是以我現在的賢慧程度感到驕傲。既上週末洗了我那雙黃色New Balance,還有我的床單被單後,我還燙了衣服(又被燙到手),還縫了縫短了兩件褲子,三件襯衫的扣子,釘了兩件襯衫的暗扣(當然刺到自己手)。

也許你會覺得,hourse’s,剪個頭髮,縫個衣服有什麼好寫的。這也許告訴我們兩件事:第一、阿觀在這邊生活實在太無趣,又不想要背德文單字,只好寫些有的沒的;第二、她之前實在是生活白癡,所以現在才驚喜地體驗所有生活瑣事。

好吧!回到正題。
是我買了新衣服,所以要改短?
不是。其實褲子是一年前從台灣帶來的。

那怎麼會掉這麼多扣子?
這是累積一年多所有掉的扣子,但是老妹又不在身邊幫我補扣子,所以才搞到已經沒有襯衫可以穿了,一次補起來,還得意洋洋。

之前為什麼不補?
我根本沒針線。都是用釘書機。

那是因為我兩週前才在一歐商店買了針線包。

一歐商店實在造福許多人。從Beethovon-haus那一站出來,到市中心的路上會經過三家一歐商店,和一家九十九仙(cent)店。這種商店不講服務,不講陳列商品順序,全部東西都在一格一格紙箱中。所賣的東西,包羅萬象,應有盡有,而且都很實用。最大的共通點除了都是一歐外,大概就是Made in China。

我跟H兩個人,湊在一塊最大的樂趣居然是逛一歐商店,真多虧了他大老遠從巴黎飛過來。我們在一歐商店買過:
棒球帽、鞋帶、洗碗精、手套、充氣枕頭(飛機上用)x2、信封、雀巢三合一冰咖啡、棉籤、洗衣籃、保鮮膜、襪子…

當然,還有針線包。有一次我們一共買了約二十歐的東西。想一想有點恐怖,這樣也花了八百塊錢ㄋㄟ,不過想到手上滴滴答答二十樣東西,買都買了。

一歐最大的特色就是:看到馬上下手。一歐商店可能讓你找到絕不會出現在採購單上的物品(例如針線包,或者充氣枕),但是看到了喜歡,就得馬上下手,不能猶豫第二天再晃過來看看,因為那時候就不一定會有了。最令我扼腕的就是那一盒一歐的雀巢冰咖啡。只要加冰牛奶,就可以搖出冰拿鐵。我喝過之後大喜,馬上決定下次再補貨,但怎麼找就是找不到。

另外還有值得買的是很多廚房用品,例如作蛋糕拌麵粉的拌刀、烘焙用的紙、秤、以及量匙,全部都是一歐。或者參加主題舞會的治裝「一次性用品」或者蠟燭,也是一歐商店買了較不會心疼。但是,像化妝品、或者廚房用刀等,救有點恐怖,不太敢買那種品質的東西。這其實是不同標準:整家店的商品其實沒有品質可言,但就是有些東西你不會介意樣式、花樣,或者品質,根本就沒差,能用就好。

但其實如果你仔細比價,也不是所有東西都是一歐商店便宜。例如洗碗精在其他超市有的只要七十仙,或者我在類似生活工廠那樣的生活用品店找到五十仙的馬克杯,也比一歐商店賣得一歐馬克杯漂亮。而且這些一歐商品賣一歐,扣除VAT,運費,進貨成本等,在現在這個講求設計、服務的市場上,還是可以逆向操作,開這種店一歐一歐賺,就知道成本多麼便宜。妙的是,有些包裝上,都還印著簡體中文字:遼寧省xx縣xx工廠等。

亞洲觀光客來歐洲可能想去的地方是LV, PRADA等所有比在台灣買還便宜,但是往往一件商品可能價值超過一千歐元的商店,而且買越多感覺賺越多。到義大利要買手工置皮鞋,到瑞士要買正牌瑞士刀…
在這邊廉價勞工如我,最愛逛的就是一歐商店,以及像這種價位的商品。到時候搬家或者回台灣時,丟掉也不覺可惜。(之前在尼斯的一歐商店買了碗盤、拖把…)但撇除我這種人不說,左右看看其他埋頭挑選採購的人,各種人都有。H告訴我,其實東西得合併後,東德購買力遠不及西歐。還有歐元造成某些程度的通貨膨脹,連一般中產階級都感受得到差別,更何況購買力較低的民眾。德國馬克或者法國法郎同樣可以買得的東西,轉成歐元後,都買不起了。難怪,一歐商店的確有廣受大家喜愛。

好吧!下週末應該再去晃晃,看可以「撿」到什麼好貨。

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