A Li Ba Ba


The boy is holding a balloon of Turish flag. Took in Kulturpark (culture park), Bursa. Because of high degree hybrid, every Turkish kid is so cute. Black hair parents may have blond child. On the street you can see blond, mid-eastern type, Indian type, mediterranean type.., but they are all Turkish. p.s. The first Miss World is Miss Turkey!

Gwen's news update:
1. Overcame the Uludag summit (2543m) by foot on August 9th, even left some words in the notebook on the top of the mountain. After the snow covering in winter, Uludag mountain, as the most famous skiing spot, is full of all size of rocks. No trees.It's so hard to climb this steep mountain, moving vertical 1200m in 20 minutes. I met my first ice hailstorm(ice rain) in the mountains and still walked slow bravely! well, because I cannot move faster.

2. Visited Southeaster Anatolia (Gaziantep, Urfa castles, Harran(the first University in the world), Nemrut Mountain(2150m) summit sunrise, and Ataturk Dam) last weekend(Aug 15~17), 16-hour bus trip to reach there. Bring back 180 photos. Also met a Istanbul trainee from Beijing University. We even have common friends! How amazing@ But, when others are curious about the Madarin we are talking about and asked are we come from the same country, She said YES before I say No! I have to explain to these Europeans after. Anyway, the trip is simply great. I will publish them after the pchome newsletter system repairing from Wednesday to Sunday.

3.Start my bally dance course this week. And I learn some dance basic movements from the crazy AIESECers....

4.No big news, 5 weeks left. A bit tired, but never visit Istanbul yet, which take at least 3 days to visit. And I didn't buy my favorite Turkish carpet yet!

5. I know one of the newsletter subscribers is going to Slovakia!! Congradulations! and good luck to your VISA!

some advice for your Preparation package:

a. simple Taiwanese History. They will ask what's the difference between HK and Taiwan, between Taiwan and Thailand, between Japan and Taiwan, between China and Taiwan. Learn some important year in heart so that it's easier to explain them why Taiwan is not China.

b. bring some Chinese and Taiwanese music, because you cannot describe how different it is! And they will ask you how is the dance!

c. Taiwan Map. Memorize simple numbers about the size of Taiwan and the population. Photos and postcards help.

useful website about Taiwan info in English
http://www.lonelyplanet.com
http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/index.html

d. Don't rely on technical things and internet too much, just like me. Not many countries are technically like Taiwan.

e. Friends contacts. You will always want to ask them to send you package and want to speak in Chinese after some time! Only at this moment, you know what is really important to you! Food or music, maybe books...


I know there are also some former trainees, current trainees and SN managers in the list. Please reply and give more advice from your experience to this trainee in Slovakia-to-be! Thanks a zillion!
And other friends, please feel free to reply and attend the discussion.

p.s. So, Do you remember the story "ALiBaBa & 40 robbers"? It's one of the stories in "1001 nights", which was happening in Turkey. I always thought "Alibaba" is a cool name, but what does it mean? "Baba" in Turkish means Father, same pronunciation with Chinese one. And "Alibaba" just means "Father Ali", isn't it interesting!!!

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Time: May 16th, 2003
Place: Effesus, in front of the Celsus Library.
topic: Visited Effesus, with Turksih Students and other trainees. Locals pay 2 million (50NTD) while foreigners pay 15 million (375NTD)
Effesus is the incredible Greek ancient city 6th BC. I will introduce this tour in the next issue.



Time: Anytime
Place: Any place
topic:The tea is the most important and common drink in Turkey, with special glass.



Time: May 16~18
Place: Kusadasi, inside the hotel, it's all same in the planery room, who cares...
topic: The crowded AIESEC dance time...



Time: May 18th, 2003
Place: Pine Bay Hotel
topic: photo with the trainees, LCP and VP reception team of LC Bursa before the "Gala dinner", which lasted 5 hours, starts at 10:00pm, ended at 3 am. There were long Turkish speech and awards.....LC Bursa again wins the best LC.



Time:May 26th
photo: One of the trainees' welcome and farewell dinner. How many trainees inside the photos?
9, from Finland, Mexico, Japan, France, Spain, Columbiax2, Germany, and Taiwan


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Bursa city view. Bursa was called "Yesil Bursa", which means Green Bursa. But now, as one of the industrial cities, and so many people moving in, Bursa is not that green any more. Yet, you can still visit so many tombs of Sultan of Ottoman Empire since Bursa was the first city of the Ottoman Empire and, in a real sense, the birthplace of modern Turkish culture.

there are thousands of roses here everywhere. Amazing, I never see so many roses around me at the same time in Taiwan. But people here, they get used to it.

Gwen's updated news
I know it is so extremely hot now in Taiwan. But here in Bursa, it's hot also, 40C something, but quite okey for drier air.

Finally, I can attach some photos to my newsletter! If it does suceed, thank you, Fanfan.
Something unlucky happened to me again this week after I lost my laptop. I lost 400 million cash (about 10,000 NTD) inside my room, all my salary and some of my money I left after the "Cappadocia tour". I felt miserable and cannot join the "blue Aegean tour " this weekend.
That's why I want to discribe my accommodation to you as I already moved for 5 times, and stayed in 8 different places in these three months. I am sorry it will be more like a complaint than an introduction. But, I don't know how to make my own experience to positive sharing.

Gwen

My moving history

photo: a kicken of a general Turksih family. On the table prepared the typical Turksih breakfast. For Turkish people, they are usually very hospitable. Inviting Friends sleeping at your home is very common, so, all the sofa in every family can spread to be a bed!

My moving history:
April 10th~April 13th, Ozlem's grandparents' flat
Ozlem is the coordinator of the reception team.

April 14th~May 10th, Miss Hanife's flat.
Hanife is a manager of the TN company. She is a 40 year-old, single, charming woman, with a female cat. It's very kind of her let me sleep on her sofa bed for free. But after all, she is used to be alone, and I decide not to bother her any more after three weeks. Also, her home is 8 metro stations far from the city center, I always got lost walking from metro station to her home.

May10th~May 19th, Noriko's room
Noriko is a Japanese trainee in Bursa. My best shopping pal.

May 20th~May 31st, Ozlem's flat
e. June 1st~July 31st share a flat with two Turkish girls. here is the flat where my money was missing. rent: 95million+ bills

Aug 1st~share a room with a new-graduated Englsih teacher, and live in a five girls+landlady flat, just like a girls dorm. rent: 50million+ bills. Washing machine provided.
The story:

Sine June, I paid 95 million (2375NTD) for my rent to share a flat with two Turkish girls, Tulin and Gulay, who are both Univeristy strudents from Uludag University, and don't speak Enlish much. I felt quite okey when I visited the flat for the first time. The two girls are slim and clean, and they promise they only smoke in the living room. There is a balcony in my room(how nice!). And we will share the bills and food.

After I moved in, I found out there were another woman, Sukran sleeping in the living room every night. (Gulay said Sukran is very poor and cannot afford the rent, so they let her to stay.) And then, I found out everyone entered in my room to the balcony to dry there clothes. It's still okey with me, until my money was stolen inside my room. We set up rules that I share the food money with them, but if I want to cook my own food, I will pay by myself. Reasonable, right? Then, I found out I don't have any food to eat in the morning for three days a week. But, wWhen I bought some eggs, or cheese, they eat them all, before I can eat them. But still, I like my two lovely flatmates.

My two flatmates went back to theri home city in June, and then Sukran brought her daughter living with us. And after one week, another stranger woman joined them, so that there are three people sleeping in the living room, and I sleep in my room. They came back home at 2 a.m. in the morning, and still turned on the TV very loudly, smoking everywhere in the rest of the flat.
In the morning, when I left home to work, I have to be very quiet, because they are still sleeping in the living room. They are very dirty, never wash dishes and all the pipes in the kitchen and bathroom are stucked.

How come I didn't do anything? or try to communicate with them? Language barrier! We are not able to communicate. When I asked, who is that strange woman, and they said, she is our friend. What can you say?
Some of the trainees in Bursa

Photo: some of the trainees in Bursa
sit: from left to right
Gorsia(Poland), Kristina(Germany), Hakki(Finland)
stand:
Gwen(Taiwan), Harold(France), Theodore(Greece), Zoe(Mexico), Katrin(Germany), Zuzka(Czech Republic)


I didn't check my money everyday, and didn't try to hide all the salary in secret place but just put them under a box, because it's so tiring to hide everything in your own room, and I believe these girls. I believe they would just pass my room to the balcony, and shouldn't move my stuff. But, two days after I checked my money, 400 million cash, I found out the money disapear. My two flatmates were not in Bursa, and the women sleeping in the living room said they didn't know anything. I couldn't suspect any of them, and always try to check any possible place. I don't think I can get the money back, and just accept the loss now. I think I learned an expensive lesson.

Now, I live with 4 girls and the landlady, 2 of them are University students and just show up during exams. The landlady is a traditional Eastern Turkish old lady. I shared a room with another Turkish girl, who had met problems with her ex-flatmate. I think we will get along very well, since language is no more a problem, and we all cherish a quiet environment.

Before I came to Turkey, I only asked AIESEC Bursa provide me the accommodation choice with only girls. I thought this is quite simple, though, I still cannot imagine things turned out to be so complicated. Maybe this is just the unconvenientce of renting a room and living outside. Now I cherish my room in Taipei too much, and I want to say apologize to my Mom, "Mom, I am so sorry keep my room so messy all the time. Now I know it's hard to have a room, and I will cherish it more."

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Turkish tea for me
Mmmm, a glass of hot Turkish tea. Warms me down to my world wide webbed toes. Hey would ya look at that..there's a fly in my tea..wow! my lucky day.
照片文字出處:http://worldtrip.iwebland.com/Fargo/Diary/DiaryEntries/TEA.html

Gwen's sincere apology

Dear friends,
I am really sorry I didn't finish the last newsletter yesterday, for I had to catch the company service bus at 18:15. And I couldn't save the newsletter on the web model with the Turkish computer, so I had no choice but publish it. I am sorry about this. As below, I will keep up the unfinished part, and start another new topic.

another mistake I made is the price of the tea. Usually, a small glass of tea is free after meal in the restaurant, costs 50,000 T.L. (1.25 NTD), and costs 400,000 T.L. (10 NTD) in a general tea shop. The tea cost us 1,400,000 T.L. (45 NTD) in the expensive tea shop we went in the afternoon. It's really expensive.

p.s. I still cannot upload my photos, because all of them are over 100K. What can I do?

Gwen


the most important ceremony
Everyone got back to their seat when the music stopped. The couple stand in front of the stage. They both wore a long white scarf, and people started to line up give the couple the regards and gifts. The bride and groom kissed everyone's two cheeks by cheeks. Most of the gifts are golden bracelet, and the bride wore all of them on her arms. Some people gave cash (even EURO), and these cash was pined on their white scarf. There are also some special little golden decoration with little red ribbon bow, as a classicla wedding gift, I think.

After the gift giving ceremony, the couple went back to the preparation room took off the gift. And the "Na-Ka-Shi" band stuffed the time with traditional songs. There were cola and cookies served on the table, but not many people are interested.

Again, the bride and groom walked out of the room, and started another Turkish dance party. I start to learn how to shake my shoulders and butt. In Chinese dance, fingers , wrist and elbow movement are seen a lot, but it's common for them to shake their shoulders and butt following the strong rhythm in the Turkish dance.
It's interesting that naturally men and women seperated when they were dancing. The groom danced in the center of a circle of men, and sometimes they hug and kissed each other's cheek from men to men. it's not formal in any other culture for men to be so intimate, but you will get used to it here.

That's for all of the Turkish wedding. My friends were exhausted dancing with their high-heels. We left the wedding at 11p.m. and went into another outdoor tea shop again. They discussed about the wedding, but I don't understand them and just sat there.

From the wedding, I can realize how important dancing is for their culture and also no wine at all in the ceremony. Because wine is not allowed in the Muslim culture, though they drink a lot usually. And also, I think for my colleagues, it's a good social place for them to meet some men, because for them, they don't have any chance in the week days, backing from home and company without social life. That's why they paid so much attention on their makeup and dressing. But I am sorry that they were disappointed again.


Turish National Drink
Turkish Coffee must be one of the first thing you think of when it comes to Turkey. Unfortunately, it's not the most common drink in Turkey. Tea, as they say "Cay", very similar pronounciation with the "Cha" in Chinese, acts as the national drink here.

I learn this when I was served 5 big cups of tea a day in the company. All most every company has its own tea lady making and sevicing unlimited tea all day long. When there are guests, also tea is served.

In the commercial buildings without tea ladies, there are always tea service in the first floor, and tea boys serve glasses of tea when you order. On the shopping street, you will see lots of empty tea glass along the street, and tea boys are responsible for sending tea and taking the glass back. Usually teenager boy do this job, and if they break the glass on the way of sending, they have to suffer the loss. Tea service is the special vocation under this tea culture. In the family, always making tea. Breakfast, tea; after meal, tea; tea time, tea; nothing to do, of course tea.

The special shape for the small tea glass is like women's body, with curve on it and always transparent. There is also a transparent tea tray, tea spoon, and sugar as a set. The teapots making tea are special also. They use two tiers of teapots at the same time. The upper teapot (smaller) hold tea leaves and the other teapot hold only water.

First, they put tea leaves into the upper pot and pout cold water into it. It's very different from our way of making tea. And then, they boil the water inside the two tiers of pot altogether. You can decide how strong you want the tea by controlling the water (in the lower pot). Then, they put suger, stir it, and finish it with very high temperature. Every time when I wait for my tea cold down, the tea lady always cannot stand me, as she says, no one drinks cold tea. Also, in the tea shop, if the tea is not hot enough, they will ask for another glass.



Fantastic Turkish Coffee (Türk Kahvesi)
Indeed, Turkish people do fortune telling by finished turkish coffee cup.

The difference between the coffee we are familiar with and Turkish coffee is the way they grind the coffee bean. Turkish people grind the coffee bean so thin that they cannot use filter paper when they cook their coffee. After they boil their thin coffee powder with water and suger, they pour both the coffee mud and coffee inside the small cup. You have to wait for the mud to deposit and then drink it without adding cream.

If you want to be told about your fortune, then you have to finish the coffee by yourself (of course). Cover the cup with the coffee tray and turn it over. Make a wish while you circle the cup around your head. Then, put it back to the table, and wait for the coffee mud to deposit again on the tray.

Usually, when they want the outcome ready quicker, they put their ring on the top of the cup bottom to cool the cup. After around ten minutes, the fortune teller start to read the shape of the mud goes inside the cup and on the tray. She will tell you what she reads and answer if your wish is going to come ture, without asking you anything about your wish or your information. You don't have to ask her about a certain interested topic either, because she just reads the mud, and tells you everything. Amazing? Come to Turkey and give it a try.



Another different drink, Ayran
I don't describe too much about this drink, because none of trainees here in Turkey likes this drink. They stir yogurt, salt and cold water altogether to make Ayran. Also, you can buy already-made Ayran in the supermarket. They think it's yuck to eat yogurt sweet, when I tell them I love strawberry flavour yogurt, and of course I cannot find any fruit flavour yogurt here. And I think I am polite enough not to tell them that I think it's yuck to eat yogurt salty. Don't you think so?

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Tulin, the bride was dancing "turkishly" with our colleague Ruzi.
Time: July, 26th, 2003 Place: Eskisehir
Gwen's news updated

- 8 weeks left
- My laptop died, it served quite well for the last two years. I will bury it here. Now, my luggage is lighter for sure.
- I try to share this Turkish wedding with you. I hope my description is not too boring.
- joining "Blue Agean tour" this weekend (Aug 1st~3rd)



Eskisehir, the old city
As I told you last week, I was joining my ex-colleague, Tulin's wedding last weekend. The wedding was held in Eskisehir, her husband's parents' city. It's quite similar to our traditional wedding place decision. After wedding, the newly-wed will still live their lives in Bursa.

Eskisehir (old city, in Turkish), three hour ride far from Bursa, and exactly in the middle way to Ankara, is actually not old at all. Anadolu Universitesi (Anatolia University) brings the large student population, and gives the city more vitality. Cheaper daily commodities, more romentic cafe and outdoor tea shops prove again that Eskisehir is not an old city at all. But Quite boring, as the locals say.


Wedding preparation
I took the bus with 3 of my colleagues, who are all 27-year-old, single, (smoking) ladies. On the way, they were so exited like girls are going to parties, putting on nail polish, and chatting all the time. After we got to Eskisehir, Ozlem, the cousin of Sukret, joined us, and four ladies re-start their dress shopping for the wedding. They also bought a gold bracelet for the bride. On our way of shopping, they stayed in an very nice expensive tea shop (one for 1.8 million, usually one for 0.5 million) smoking.

Before heading for wedding, four ladies bought 3 tops and 1 pair of high-heels. I guess they were really excited about the coming wedding. We ate our dinner at Ozlem's home, and Ozlem's father drove us, 4 gorgeous ladies and 1 photographer (me) to the wedding.


serious delay
We got to the party place at 9 p.m., but not many people were there. I asked them when should the wedding start. The anwser is 7 p.m.!! Wow! worse than the Taiwanese wedding dinner.

Finally, the bride and groom showed up. The bride is still wearing her glasses, and you could see the iron frame under her white skirt. I bet she must didn't feel comfortable at all. They start the first dance under the classical love song of Celin Dion. And then, the participants joined the dance. My friends sat lonely on the seat. I tried to take photos, but there were appointed photographer and cameraman taking photos and video. They don't allow me to take!

After three songs, the music suddenly changed to the traditional Turkish music with the live band, let's say, "Na-Ka-Shi". The couple started to dance wildly another totally different kind of dance. I can see they feel more relaxed now. My colleagues joined the dancing. They danced in a circle, and this is the first time I start to dance with my shoulder and butt under my control.


The most important ceremony
Everyone got back to their seat when the music stopped. The couple stand in front of the stage. They both wore a long white scarf, and people started to line up give the couple the regards and gifts. The bride and groom kissed everyone's two cheeks by cheeks. Most of the gifts are golden bracelet, and the bride wore all of them on her arms. Some people gave cash (even EURO), and these cash was pined on their white scarf.

After the gift giving ceremony, the couple went back to the preparation room took off the gift.

I cannot finish....
wait...

婚禮結束,與同事離開去喝茶。
左起:Ruzufet, Banu, Sucret的表妹,表妹的媽媽, 還有Sucret

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Turish newsflash, Temmuz 22

My dear newsletter subscriber,
This is Gwen from Bursa, Turkey. I have a good news, and a bad news for you.

The good news is that I took last week off (July 14th~20th) travelling to south east and central part of Turkey, which is totally different from north west part. There are full of historical treatures in Turkey. Lots of places appearing in the Bible and Byzzantine, Roman Empire are in Turkey. But they was stupidly ruined and ignored by these Islamic Turkish since the 7th century. The farthest city I went is Antakya. If we say that the 3% Turkey in Europe is the key to Europe, then Antakya is the gate toward the Arabian world. I brought back 278 photos of this beatiful country and going to share with you.

Though, the bad news is that my beloved 2-year-old Compaq Presario 800 is temporarily dead, and now lying in the reparing factory. I can only type in English with my company Turkish computer. My writing plan of introducing the life in Turkey and my travelling diary is suspended until my laptop comes back safely. If my laptop were announced the death sentence, I can only finish them after 10 weeks after I come back to Taiwan.

Meanwhile, I will start another series of newsletter, which I always want to do but lack of time, the English version newsletter. I will update my life to you, such as joining my first Turkish wedding this weekend or first circumcision ceremony in the summber. And also, I will complete the 7 issue in last 3 months. I won't translate them directly but rewrite them. Please feel free to ignore them if you don't like my poor English writing skills. But also please be generous to give me feedback by just press the reply button. I will really appreciate your kindness.

best regards from Bursa,

Gwen

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(6/20)第十週。明天凌晨一點要坐六個小時巴士到伊茲米爾(Izmir),土耳其第三大城市,第二大港,用力給他玩個兩天。下週再寫寫到安卡拉以及伊茲米爾的遊記好了。另外,昨天收到妹妹以及AIESEC北大分會的包裹,寄給我隨身碟,AIESEC相關產品,燒了一堆中文歌,還有台灣傳統市場以及菜販水果攤的照片。超感動以及感謝。真的!當我show給他們看我們有這麼多水果以及蔬菜,他們很多連看都沒有看過。

(6/30)第十二週。上次才說自己的薪水是四百million,這邊我要更正一下,是三百million。因為美金貶值,所以,除了出口貿易公司受影響,連帶我們這些可憐的trainee薪水也縮水。今天是我的二十三歲生日,下了班還要跟一群trainee去公園慢跑,真是健康!

(7/1) 明明昨天就完成了,但是發不出去,害我無法完成我的『生日紀念特刊』。不過,這一期已經拖了整整一個月了,也不差這一天就是了。


我的公司(中)

Bursa是土耳其第四大工業城,主要為汽車以及紡織工業,尤其以絲織品聞名,因為蠶寶寶很多。大部分trainee也在這兩個產業公司工作。我的公司主要生產家庭紡織品,例如桌巾,窗簾,浴簾,家具裝飾布料...等,主要市場為歐美高級紡織品市場。表面上是一個Akroteks-Ozcelikler公司集團,但是其實公司和公司之間沒有很大的分野,完全含括從頭到尾的生產加銷售過程,同一個老闆,同一個總經理。Ozcelikler工廠負責紡織,(twisting, warping, weaving),擁有六百多名女工以及兩百五十台新款的提花織布機;Toros工廠則負責最後一個流程,染整,完成以及品質控制(dyeing, finishing, & quality control);Akroteks公司負責進出口業務以及行銷,外銷國家包括英美,德法,希臘,科威特,澳洲,南非,摩洛哥,埃及,俄國,阿根廷,瑞典,澳洲,匈牙利...等;另外一家工廠Bjtona則是休閒服成衣工廠。公司集團擁有兩個品牌,perga curtains以及Adente table cloth。http://www.akroteks.com/ 大老闆另外在別的城市還擁有一間度假旅館,還有其他投資我不知道。

TN form上我上班的公司為Ozcelikler,而job description為『She/he will do market research and production planning. Especially she/he will research about Southern Asia's market details』。工作了十週,我才慢慢搞清楚,我應該算是在Akroteks公司工作,我的工作跟marketing research只算是扯得上一點關係,就是在網路上搜尋,並聯絡台灣,中國,香港的供應商,試圖購買更便宜的raw material。這讓我依稀記得周文賢老師用力踏著地板說『尋,比,議,標,選』,採購過程的五個步驟:尋價,比價,議價,開標,選擇。我做的大概就是這樣的事。我的辦公室跟foreign trade部門在一起,每天我在兩台電腦前面搜尋公司資料,寫信給他們要求樣品以及報價,將這些統整在一起直接交給總經理,接著就等著他的回應。

總經理Dr. Donmaz是英國曼徹斯特大學化工博士,身兼這四家公司的總經理,他的決策制訂的很慢,但是,我也不能拿著鞭子逼他怎樣。因此,收集到的雪尼爾線(Chenille yarn)、巴里紗(Voile fabric),或是窗簾的透明塑膠套(PVC pouches),到現在沒有得到任何具體回應,公司是要跟他們下訂單還是不要,我一點概念也沒有,現在,就坐著每天回信給數十家公司,消極回應跟他們解釋,我也沒有得到任何消息。至於job description上面有關production planning的工作呢?我也不知道到底是怎麼回事,可能是寫了好看吧。一度,我想積極的propose總經理我還可以作什麼樣的project,例如開發新客戶市場。但是,土耳其的紡織產品完全敵不過中國大陸物廉價美的紡織產品,土耳其的工資已經算是很低了,但是,中國大陸的勞力更低。久而久之,他們也放棄亞洲這塊市場,而主攻歐美市場了。像是日本90%的市場也是被中國大陸吃掉。所以,當我無聊這麼提議的時候,他們笑著說,『好啊,你就試試吧,雖然我不認為你可以作成功』。害我馬上洩氣。

Foreign trade辦公室的另外有三位單身小姐,每個人一天一包煙。Banu, Sukret是紡織工程textile engineer背景出身,但礙於英語能力,她們並沒有辦法以及時間慢慢跟我解釋所有她們的產業知識。另外Ruzufet則應該是學國貿的。由於,我的工作是由總經理直接指派,因此也與同事們沒有相關,她們搞不懂我在幹什麼,我也不知道他們在幹嘛。偶爾,我有問題問她們的時候,她們的回答通常是『不知道』,或是『總經理決定的』。並且,當她們處於忙碌狀態時,就不太想多花心思講英文,並且煙一根接著一根的吸。所以,在辦公室裡,我處在極度沈靜狀態。既聽不懂她們在吵什麼,掛誰的電話,也不太說話,偶爾走出辦公室,避一避辦公室的二手煙,呼吸室外的新鮮車輛廢氣。當我的工作妨礙到她們的時候,也可以從她們嘴裡發出不耐煩的匝匝聲,知道我最好停止列印,或是結束正在寫的email。我知道這不太好,但是,當大家已經對這個新來的trainee不新鮮不好奇的時候,日子就是這樣過的。經過跟其他trainee交換意見後,我們得到共同的結論:trainee在土耳其公司完全不被重視。另外:

土耳其公司的管理觀念仍然非常弱。雖然,公司老闆以及總經理各司其職,似乎專業分工。但是,傳統公司文化,階級意識仍然非常明顯,像是在軍隊裡面一樣,一個口令,一個動作。所有員工聽命辦事,不違背上意,儘管自己不認同,也不會提出自己的意見來說服上司。一切老闆說了就算,不必思考,不需要有自己的想法。因此,總經理作幾乎所有的決策。例如:當我問同事,這個設計的價格為何,是如何決定的,她說,她不知道,要問總經理才知道。通常trainee變成公司中唯一放炮的人,也許是因為不怎麼在乎這個traineeship,半年三個月,隨便他fire就算了,另外,trainee也比較沒有階級觀念,會直接稱呼上司的名諱,沒有丟到飯碗的壓力。但是,相對的,公司也不大在乎trainee的意見。

我九點開始上班,六點下班,一週上班五天。我辦公室的其他小姐,則都是上班六天,每天輪值一個人留到晚上八點,她們雖無奈,卻也都接受這樣的安排。我每天期待的就是跟除了總經理、公司小開等這些會講英文的同事,雞同鴨講一番,例如,倒茶的小姐,以及司機,秘書。每天用破爛的土耳其文與她們問好,或是把新學的土耳其文跟他們對話,十分有趣。她們每個人都會捏我的臉頰,嘴巴唸唸叨叨著好可愛,好像我是小狗狗或是小baby一樣。喔,還有每天下午來辦公室喝茶聊天的Fedex 先生。我不知道台灣公司的情形。這邊,由於大量的寄收快遞sample,所以公司有自己的Fedex帳號,公司電腦也灌Fedex的管理系統。Fedex先生每天來兩趟,早上來送公司的包裹,下午,則來接公司要寄出去的包裹。他們就就像公司的一份子一樣,來了就自動找位子坐下來,跟大家問好,喝茶,幫我的同事打包,貼Fedex膠帶,騰對方地址,一邊聊天,一邊工作。偶爾他們鬥嘴,追打,就教我對對方說一些我不懂的話,一定是罵對方瘋子笨蛋之類的,我通常都會乖乖的說,然後學一堆罵人的話。

雖然網路不怎麼方便,我仍然算是這邊有網路可用的trainee。整個公司,只有外貿部門有網路,六台電腦share一條電話撥接,速度10.0Mbps,往往等了五分鐘,瀏覽器卻顯示找不到網頁,令人氣得快跳腳。對我來說,最重要的yahoo mail以及hotmail網頁,卻到每天連得上一次就偷笑的程度。但是,連MSN messenger卻出奇的順,讓我覺得身處不幸中的大幸。(除了前一陣子阿爾及利亞地震影響地中海沿岸網路線路的那個時候)。另一方面,公司為了我,買了一張小桌子給我,幫我接好網路線,令我感動萬分,因為跟其他連辦公桌都沒有的trainee比起來,我還算是幸福的。我還可以自由打電話回家報平安,或是fax回家。公司的同事也都很關心我,才會發生像上次戴口罩被逼著上醫院的故事。對我來說,唯一的問題,只有在這密閉的辦公室空間中,持續不斷的吸二手煙,以及薪水不定時發放。往往到了發薪水的前幾天,我已經捉襟見肘,還得跟公司借錢過活。讓我很火大的是,明明是公司發薪遲了二十天,讓我現金調度出了問題,卻讓我每個月像是寅吃卯量的無賴,得向公司低聲下氣的問何時發薪,可不可以先給我一點現金繳交房租。

(續待)其實沒有什麼可以寫的了,但是,我希望我的工作在接下來四個月能出現轉機,可以再跟大家報告,到時候才會有下集出現。

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第九個禮拜。話說,其實我到土耳其是全職玩樂,兼職上班的。但是為了不辜負我領的250美金薪水,我還是把公司的狀況跟大家報告一下好了。

我的公司(上)

每天早晨八點四十五分整,我坐上公司派遣的交通車。有點像小學生在路邊等著坐上校車上學一樣。你會看到,每個定點,有各種人在等待各種交通車。有穿寶藍色圍兜兜的小學生,有穿格子百褶群的高中女生,也有像『我』一樣的上班族。交通車,並不是隨便坐都可以喔,必須坐對自己公司的那一台,但問題是,大部分的交通車都是同型同款,白色十人到十五人座的小巴。我的公司交通車為一家租車公司所有,顯然公司外包。兩部交通車,分成兩個路線,每天固定路線,沿途將員工撿去上班。對於像我這種沒有坐過校車的幸福小孩來說,還真的彌補了一點童年的遺憾。車上的同事,有點像小學生沒有睡醒一般,通常,上車的那個人會囁嚅一聲『早』(Gudaydin),但是車上的人沒有一個理他,大家繼續昏迷。所以,通常我上車的時候,帶著最大的微笑,大聲說『Gudaydin』,也沒有人會理我,接著我就要趕快坐上座位,以免車子開動,我滾到地上。而下班的時候,情況也差不多,大家都很清楚兩部車的路線為何。六點一到,要回家的,就搭上其中一班車,要去逛街或辦事的,自己跟司機說要在哪裡下車。

公司並不在市中心,在離市中心半個小時車程的Demirtas。沿途的風景挺不錯,有點像鄉村小路,泥土路上,每輛車掀起一陣陣風沙,坐在車內,像極了要去郊外踏青一般。車子大約開十分鐘會經過一座橋,會有軍人以及軍人的車子,一開始我以為每輛車子都要接受檢查,但是其實並沒有,所以,也不知道他們站在那邊幹嘛。

接著,會經過一大片梅園。剛到這邊的前兩週,天氣微涼(對我們來說,應該說是微冷),梅園中的梅樹不高,排列整齊,光禿禿沒有一片葉子,枝頭末端卻開滿粉紅色的梅花,連一些膝蓋般高的小朋友樹,也不專美於前,努力開滿花朵。好像記得國中國文哪一學期的的第二課,講到梅花吧,依稀記得梅花很像是我們的『國花』,但是,這是我第一次親眼見到。異常興奮,一直怨嘆無法下車拍照留念。這種興奮一直悶在心中,無法跟鄰座昏迷的同事分享我的喜悅,只能眼睛發光的努力釘著瞧。心中高唱『梅花梅花滿天下,越冷她月開花』(有夠俗),不然唱『真情向梅花開豁,冷冷冰雪不能淹沒,就在最冷,枝頭綻放,看見春天,走向你我』,費玉清,我愛你!

過了兩週,忽然,梅樹有點奇怪,心裡想到底是哪裡變了樣,原來是,點點綠芽冒出來了,這才發覺,原來之前開花的時候,整株梅樹都是花,沒有葉子,還真的很奇怪,但是卻看得很自然。現在看到葉子了,反然覺得很醜。再過過,梅樹只有大片葉子,花花掉滿地了,非常醜,我就開始在車上睡覺,不想去看他們了。到了公司,大約九點,通常另一個路線的車子都會比較慢。沒有吃早餐的,就會開始打電話給旁邊的小店點土司。大家各就各位。每個人桌上已經擺好了一大瓶水,以及杯子。這時候,tea lady另外端上紅茶,大家開始工作。往往不到中午,大家已經喝了三大馬克杯的茶了。

公司號稱是公司集團。有三間工廠(Toros, Ozcelikler, 還有一個忘記了)和一個貿易公司(Akroteks)。但是,其實創辦人是同一人,總經理是同一人,所以,我猜測這樣的分工,應該是為了進出口外銷的方便,以及行公文的方便。我的座位跟export 部門在一起,我擁有自己的一小張桌子,大小是同事的一半,果然像小學生一樣。辦公室一共有六個人,除了我以外,四位未婚小姐,一位不屬於export部門的先生。其中,Tulin英文說的最好,通常是她負責解釋給我聽,我的左臉面對著她。但是,她也是抽煙抽得最兇的,往往一口口煙,就直接噴在我的臉上。另外,她也習慣維持她的桌子的乾淨,將煙灰往前吹,就剛好吹在我的桌子上。有一天,一切都看似正常,但是Tulin卻跟總經理說了一聲,就選擇當天離職了。因為她要準備婚禮的一切事情。我張大嘴巴,訝異到不行。原來,離職說一聲就可以囉,到底是不是真的有所謂的規定啊!

公司其實大部分是工廠,而另一棟兩層樓的建築緊鄰工廠是辦公室,所以坐辦公室的都在這一棟矮矮的辦公大樓上班。公司外面有漂亮的花圃,整齊的草坪,種滿各種顏色的大株玫瑰花。另一片草坪則滿滿的蒲公英,常常工作累了,我就蹲在草坪上,協助蒲公英繁殖。蒲公英草坪的隔壁是餐廳。

午餐時間在公司解決。十二點一到,工人們陸續往所謂餐廳的小房間前進,有廚師廚娘掌廚,吃什麼不得有異議。通常其中一個凹槽裝湯,另一個裝肉。或者,一個裝飯,另一個裝大豆湯。大家排排隊,拿鐵餐盤,鐵湯匙,以及叉子,讓廚師為大家舀菜。Yogurt自己拿,麵包在桌上自己掰。你會聽到親鈴匡啷的清脆聲音此起彼落。大家紛紛將yogurt舀入鐵杯,加水,加鹽,攪拌混合。這是土耳其人大家從小吃到大的飲料,愛蘭(Ayran)。

吃完飯,大家各就各位上班,繼續喝茶。但是沒有午睡,對我來說非常痛苦。常常,在土耳其咖啡還沒有送上來之前,我就躲在壞掉的那間廁所的馬桶上偷偷睡覺。通常,下午的時間很難熬,又睏又無聊。大家要上班到六點,總經理規定,export部門的小姐們,每天要留守一個人到晚上八點,以方便接訂單等等。照理來說,我應該也要幫忙,但是,我留下來沒路用,又不會接電話,接了電話,通常對方都會掛掉,以為自己打錯了,所以…,我還是乖乖下班好了。所有人禮拜六都要上班,但是我不用,難怪,這些export小姐會嫁不出去,因為根本沒有機會,力氣,以及多餘的金錢玩樂嘛。

傳統土耳其紡織公司可以比喻為中國古代的大豪宅門。上上下下擁有各種職位的人。有永遠也不知道何方神聖的公司創辦人(老爺)(開賓士),有公司小開(少爺)(開BMW跑車),總經理(大管家來福,擁有英國曼徹斯特大學紡織工程博士學位),有專屬廚子,廚娘,司機,秘書,門房,以及擦桌抹地除草的長工,為職員端茶奉水的丫環,還有為公司做牛做馬上百名沒沒無聞的女工,工人。究其原因,應該是,土耳其普遍人力低廉,工資很低,所以公司必須間接提供其他需求,例如中餐以及交通。我的薪水250美金,大約四百million土耳其幣,我還不夠花用,卻比一般的工人還要高,一般工人卻還有家庭要養。(續待)

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已經七個禮拜。地中海沿海地區的網路速度受阿爾及利亞地震影響,害我不法連上MSN。剛剛花了半小時下載『手牽手』,聽完了就很想哭,開始想念台灣的一切。想起Jessica提起的trainee心情cycle,完全符合。來這邊近兩個月,現在的我,心情像股市的跌停板,正擋不住的下跌,對台灣的思念,不斷的升高。

Joanna's friend

在這個地球村的世界,儘管已經常常覺得世界真小,但卻還是有時候覺得世界小的可怕。在土耳其第三個禮拜週末(5/2~5/4),我參加了Bursa分會舉辦的國際活動TURQUOISE,target delegation是將要出國的土耳其學生。他們認真的上有關如何present土耳其的課,認識culture shock,探詢有關出國會遇到的問題以及難關。藉由和在土耳其的學生對談,模擬不同文化,會發生怎麼樣的挫折。

我藉機認識在土耳其其他城市的trainee:從Ankara來的荷蘭女生是心理分析師;委瑞內拉的Nyille則看起來有三十歲了,也是AIESEC Alumni,當我知道她是放棄manager職位而來take traineeship的,舌頭不自覺的伸出來。在她從前的公司,她則是負責take trainee的contact person! Istanbul來的有波蘭女生(以及她的庫得族男友),她已經結束兩個三個月traineeship。回到波蘭找不到工作,目前來土耳其度假。Bursa的trainee有我還有一個日本女生Noriko以及法國trainee Harold。另外還有三位從瑞士來的delegate,其中一個長的很像芭比娃娃的男友Kenny,以及本籍kyrgyzstan(我不知道譯音),但是在土耳其讀書,到印度traineeship的回國SN男生(名字難以記住)。

另外,大會chair是葡萄牙籍,剛結束土耳其總會的Luis,去年有去IC 2002加拿大,再之前一年卻是在AIESEC德國總會工作的瘋子,講話飛快,一副道地的AIESECer。Faci則為一位金髮蘇格蘭男子Johnny,在AIESEC保加利亞工作已十個月。問他為何選擇保加利亞,他的答案是,因為保加利亞是離他的羅馬尼亞女友最近的國家。另一位金髮faci則很眼熟,我卻遲遲說不出他的名字,也沒有跟他打招呼。(是到之後的全國大會才知道他是AIESEC International 的Andrew,我們兩年前在IC瑞士見過面,他是當時的AI成員。他居然也到土耳其三四個月了!)他和Luis都是在AIESEC待了六,七年。這樣的陣仗,也算是國際活動了吧!

為什麼本篇topic是Joanna's friend呢?親愛的Jo,你猜到了嗎?因為,那個Kyrgyzstan男生是你在印度的時候也認識的人!!當他在session中做簡短的traineeship回顧報告時,我看到你們party時的照片,站在椅子上,尖叫出來,J-O-A-N-N-A!!!沒有想到,當我遺憾地離開台灣,前往土耳其,和你結束印度的traineeship回到台灣只有幾天之差,卻在一個月後,再度見到你的照片,以及共同認識的人。

世界真是小。

在一個土耳其語的session中,所有Non-Turkish聚集起來,分享在土耳其的甘苦談。波蘭女生談到大家的心聲,在這緩慢的步調中,trainee往往沒有事可以做,土耳其公司會認為要給你兩個禮拜的適應時間,再決定要如何用你。Kyrgyzstan青年則談到他在印度,也是閒閒沒事,但因為他的面孔為黃種偏黑,所以完全被認為是印度人,每個人都跟他說Indi,另外,他買門票時,也可以以當地人的價格買票。庫德族青年則提到在他們擁有自己完全不同系統的庫德族語,卻還得在學校學習永遠用不到的土耳其語的無奈,讓我想到,這樣的感覺跟我們在國中高中花多少時間在背中國各省的省會,卻從未踏過那塊土地,是不是一樣的。

結束這樣的討論後,所有的Non-Turkish繼續在五星級飯店內玩耍。我們有一個簡單的global village,還有跟每個土耳其學生分享在這邊的心得以及回答他們的問題。Luis不斷要求我作一些Asia Pacific region的rollcall,我也算是在這樣的conference中以特別的身份,過過乾癮了。我回想這樣令人熟悉,懷念的AIESEC conferences,AIESEC dance,roll-calls,這次以trainee的身份卻是這樣的輕鬆,想翹session就翹,因為我是trainee!!

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Turkish Newsflash- Mayis 22
1.時光非逝,轉眼間落腳土耳其已六週。雖然身在遙遠的馬摩拉海(sea of Marmara)海岸(就是博斯普魯斯海峽The Bosphorus以及達達尼爾海峽Dardanelles所夾的啦),報主仍盡量上網關心台灣近況,為SARS疫情未減緩而憂心,希望各位保重身體,多多洗手。

2.雖然土耳其食物為世界四大美食之一,但是,報主還是覺得台灣小吃,台灣甜點,台灣四季多到不行的蔬果更甚於這個沒有蔬菜水果可言的國家。請大家要好好珍惜,不要像報主一樣,身在異國,既無廚藝又找不到食材,老大徒傷悲。喔,另外,別忘了也要珍惜台灣快速的網路建設。

3.公司下個月將裝ADSL,雖然仍舊是六台電腦share一條線,但是一定比現在六台電腦share一條電話線快。希望到時候能將一些照片上傳與各位分享,並且為電子報增色一些。

4.報主為近三個禮拜未發報,致最深歉意,這表示報主每天生活多姿多彩,無暇寫作。所幸,報主的老闆本週在伊斯坦堡參加國際紡織展,報主將把握猴子稱大王的機會,大大偷懶一番,一定挖空心思撰寫最近消息以及所見所聞補償各位。

5.本電子報完全由報主個人自由心證,挑選主題撰寫。在擔心卻仍然期盼得到讀者迴響,如果有任何意見或是好奇想要得知的消息,也歡迎寫信告知。所以feedback可直接回覆電子報加入討論或 huangkuan@yahoo.com.tw 或Demirtas Organize Sanayi Bolgesi M. Karaer Cod. No:33 AKROTEKS-OZCELIKLER-TOROS Bursa/Turkiye。時間差別為一秒以及兩週,請各位自行選擇。

6.本電子報經過四期發行,訂閱量從兩人(報主為其中一人)到現在的五十人,實在要感謝大家的支持。如果各位覺得值得分享給更多關心土耳其或是報主的朋友,也歡迎邀請訂閱,若在申請審核時,說明訂閱原因或表明身份更佳。訂閱網址:http://mychannel.pchome.com.tw/channels/h/u/huangkuan/

謝謝。祝福各位。

娃娃池池長

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猶記得,在準備出國的時候,為了健康檢查困擾了很久。台北市各大醫院沒有健康檢查的套餐組合。你不能直接點A餐量血壓,或B餐驗血,C餐加驗尿,D餐再加X光等等。你跟護士阿姨說你的健檢目的,她也不會告訴你需要什麼檢查。例如,我這是要學校用的,或是考駕照用的。我告訴護士阿姨我要出國工作,去土耳其。有沒有什麼一定要檢查的,她聳聳肩,『你要自己問清楚』。因此,跑了醫院不下五次,花了上千元,考慮要不要驗性病,要不要驗愛滋病。當時,SARS疫情正剛開始,走在醫院裡面,更是不寒而慄,有些阿媽用手摀著口鼻,彷彿這樣也可以抵擋恐怖的病菌。這是我對醫院的痛苦印象。

最後,我沒有等到我的愛滋病結果報告,我就出國了。

AIESEC告訴我,公司需要我的『無SARS證明』,當時,我沒有好氣的用email跟Tugba說,我作不到。台灣醫院恐怕也作不到。

到達的第二天4/12,reception team coordinator Ozlem帶我去警察局辦居留前,就先帶著我到醫院一趟。好險,她的爸爸是醫生,口頭介紹哪位醫生可以為我開立『無SARS證明』。並且,有AIESEC陪伴,我就安然不用大腦地跟她在醫院穿梭。

Ozlem爸爸工作的醫院不算小,包括兩到三棟建築物。但是,醫院內人潮擁擠,加上空調不夠,顯得噪熱不安。不過至少,沒有人在醫院內吸煙。首先,我們先找到該位醫生,接著下樓辦理掛號手續,接著繳錢,費用為給政府的錢。

接著我們又回到醫生辦公室門口等待。我有點搞不懂,沒有像台灣醫院的燈號顯示,每當一位病患走出來,大家就探個頭,接著,就有人自動知道該到自己了。實在搞不懂。

照例,在等候的過程,所有候診的病患都盯著這個外國人瞧,連躺在病床上,坐在輪椅上的病人,都硬ㄍㄧㄣ撐起上半身往我瞧。

輪到我時,醫生問我台灣的情況,然後笑笑說,我看不出你有任何疾病。他說,SARS只是感冒,完全是媒體渲染。我則哭笑不得,要糾正他呢,還是就吐吐舌頭,矇騙一張證明。

醫生手寫了證明文字,類似證明我沒有任何疾病,接著,我們到打字房,看著他們用word打出來,再回去找醫生簽名,再跑兩間辦公室完成手續。接著,又去繳費,這次的費用是治療費。

很有趣的醫院經驗,我只需要談談話,就可以證明我完全健康。我以為萬事就ok了,我也如期拿到居留證明。


但,就在我開始工作的兩個禮拜後,我又再一次參觀了醫院。只因為我在辦公室內戴起了口罩。這也是我在這邊犯得一次嚴重的錯誤。

在我的辦公室內,包括我有六位員工,其中有四位是吸煙的小姐,她們平均一天一包煙。在很濃郁的煙霧中,我的鼻子在呼吸時,會隱隱作痛。在我忍受嚴重煙害後的這一天,我接受其他trainees的建議,戴起口罩作沈默的抗議。我滿心以為我戴起口罩後,她們會尷尬的少抽一點。但是,結果完全不是這麼一回事,我完全錯估情勢。

辦公室的同事偷偷打電話給AIESEC,跟他們說我生病了。也許,她們不是偷偷打電話,只是我根本不曉得她們在說什麼。問AIESEC是要公司帶我去看醫生呢,還是AIESEC負責。我在完全不知道她們在作什麼狀況下,被載去見AIESEC。當下,我直覺可能是因為我的黑眼圈,可能因為我滿臉病容。所以,我堅持我只是沒有睡夠,並不需要看醫生。但是,她們堅持把我送上車。

好險AIESEC挺我,他們猜測是因為口罩的關係。但是,我還是得去看醫生。這次,卻受到殘酷的刑罰。

首先,我又去檢查身體健康。我用學會的土耳其語打招呼。醫生很疑惑,為什麼我這麼健康的人,要進到他的房間。

不過至少這次,他沒有說SARS只是感冒了。由於我說,我在吸煙的環境中,鼻子會痛。接著,我就糊里糊塗地被帶去抽血,用長長的筷子戳攪喉嚨,還有照頭部X光。


現在想起來,真的沒什麼。但是,當時就覺得好無辜,憑什麼因為黑眼圈或是不喜歡煙味,就要接受這樣的待遇。

回到辦公室,說著說著,就哭出來。....果然是沒睡飽。

檢驗結果出來,我的鼻子沒有問題。辦公室的煙味還是沒有解決。

不過,我萬萬沒有想到,初到土耳其,就這麼幸運地到醫院觀光兩次。

為了這珍貴的『無SARS證明』。

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結束精彩的伊斯坦堡—布爾沙兩個半小時比手劃腳的巴士之旅。我終於與AIESEC LC Bursa的member見面,大部分是reception team的成員,還有一位負責提行李的DJ。另外,Diego,一位西班牙的trainee也一起接我。土耳其的貼臉儀式只有兩下,一開始還不大習慣,因為被Otto的巴西貼臉法影響。每次已經貼完臉頰了,我的頭卻還伸在那邊,真是有點糗。

一行人浩浩蕩蕩地到LC office,辦公室的座落Bursa市中心,離辦居留的警察局很近,離捷運站以及大shopping mall很近,卻離Bursa大學很遠,但是他們認為他們沒有接受學校的支援,因此,在辦公室座落於此,可說是地利極佳。

進入辦公室後,人來人往,音樂開著。辦公室有大約十台電腦,member聚精會神利用辦公室電腦作match,check email,用MSN聊天。樓上是會議室,LCP辦公室,以及VP的座位。LC的專用手機以及電話也在樓上。LCP Bulent正在與要交接的LCP開會。Member各自忙各自的事情,沒有人互相打擾。

LC Bursa大約五十人,分為八個team,分工之細,教育訓練之初就分為marketing及delivery。Marketing組的new member以後將會在外部關係,SN marketing,TN marketing,這部分也是大家最搶手的。另外一組,則將會在TN delivery,SN delivery,Reception team工作。AIESEC的member視AIESEC一個非常重要增添CV經歷的方式,工作起來也真的非常拼命與專業。由我的Reception Responsible Tugba口中得知,在土耳其要能上大學,錄取率為萬分之一貨真價實的萬中選一。但是,一旦上了大學之後,他們並不用功,而且大學學歷並不保證一個好工作。因此,選擇進入AIESEC的學生,等於視此為一個重要的管道。

這樣的學生背景,有好處也有壞處。好處是,如我所敘述,他們的拼命以及專業。他們的成績有目共睹,扣除掉剛被fire的兩位trainee,目前有12位trainee,並且六月以前,還會陸續有trainee進來。他們的最低criteria是十四張incoming traineeship。辦公室牆上的海報表示著每位trainee的city tour,culture night,等完成進度。至於他們的全國SRB(申請參加AIESEC traineeship的篩選考試),第一階段有140人,第一階段筆試刷下一半,再經過口試,競爭激烈程度,甚至有些AIESEC member被這樣的篩選刷下來。

壞處是,大家忽略了這麼努力工作所得的成果—trainee。由於分工太細,不在reception team工作的member不在乎trainee以及他們所應提供的服務。也因為大家傾向選擇與公司接觸的marketing team,而reception team總是缺乏人力。這也造成一些service & learning上的問題。也是這次鬧得滿城風雨的trainee被公司fire掉的事件。我會在下一期作詳細說明。

到了辦公室之後,我們非常正式地開了一場expectation meeting,填問卷,勾選我希望什麼樣的接待活動,以及我希望參與什麼樣的AIESEC 活動。我的住處選擇有五個,而當時就有兩個選擇的potential flat mate來見我。讓我非常驚奇這一連串reception的效率以及專業。

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行程: 馬航(台北—吉隆波—開羅—伊斯坦堡)
時間:92年四月九日
台北—吉隆坡
鑒於上次去瑞士世界大會的經驗,我盡量克制帶衣服的慾望,希望不要超過馬航每人20公斤的行李上限。但是,當行李抬上無情的磅秤,居然還是整整多了12公斤。我帶著口罩,跪在地上,胡亂拿出一些東西往身上背,終於勉強通過。
因為SARS,從來沒有想過要跟大家搶買口罩的我,也不免俗的買了一個八十塊口罩上路出發土耳其。當我們害怕戰爭的波及時,別人懷疑這個台灣人跟SARS的關係。我才發現戴著口罩,無法進食,幾乎無法呼吸,眼鏡起霧。大家的想法大概都跟我差不多。上了飛機,大家都把口罩掛在椅背上,以備下飛機在機場帶好看用。

但是SARS真正對我的影響是:
我終於有機會住住褚士瑩在書中提到的機場小房間!

原本依照馬航的安排,我必須拿120小時落地簽證,坐接駁巴士去旅館,等十二小時的轉機。但,馬來西亞拒絕發給我(包括台灣,加拿大等國家)簽證,(應該說是我們沒有耐心等待他檢查),結果馬航arrange給我在機場的旅館的房間。超讚。機場裡小房間的傳說果然存在!,我洗了個澡,在機場餐廳免費覓食,然後又回去睡覺,直到服務台打電話叫我起床,再次登機。我也第一次在機場過夜。也度過沒有任何簽證的12小時。所以,如果不是SARS,就沒有小房間。



吉隆坡—開羅
午夜,上了飛機。在飛機上,居然有一個笑容超燦爛的空少跟我搭訕聊天,我猜我大概是飛機上少數的華人女性吧。畢竟從上飛機開始,我就注意到幾乎都是帶著小帽的埃及男人以及他身邊披著長頭巾的女人和小朋友,實在是有點好笑,平常只有這些回教女性遮面,現在因為口罩,大家長相都差不多。

開羅—伊斯坦堡
開羅轉機時,大家呆在一個小房間內。等待空服人員換班交接完,接著起飛到伊斯坦堡。要到伊斯坦堡的兩個小時,我已經整整二十小時沒有說話了。很想找人搭訕,正在想要不要跟前面有一個面色不是很慈祥的男人分享我照的照片時,右後有一個像Andre的男人示意要給我他的柳橙汁,實在有點像引誘小狗。不過anyway,為了表達謝意,當他在招手要我坐過去時,我就沒有拒絕了。

圖片說明:降落伊斯坦堡機場
他成了我沒有流落機場的貴人。

Mehmet的英文超級好,他的大學學業在英國唸了一年,德國唸了兩年,最後美國又唸了一年還是兩年,目前從事家族塑膠工業,才從台南(台南ㄟ!!!)出差完,取消新加坡的行程,正要回伊斯坦堡。下個禮拜又要飛很多個地方。他是一個好人。他告訴我一堆我該注意的,看他用心的程度,就覺得自己有夠狗運好可以遇見他。所以後來果然沒有人在機場等我,我才開始發現一句話都聽不懂,又無法用英文溝通的時候,他免除我徬徨無助。我才發覺我連AIESEC電話都沒有抄下來,很慌亂的打開laptop,找出電話,他就幫我打電話給Bursa分會,接著告訴我如何坐公車到伊斯坦堡市中心見伊斯坦堡分會的人。
在辦入境時,我發現我的不同。每個人盯著我看,到了非常不禮貌的程度。有一位女士為了看我,連排隊都忘記了,真不曉得所謂的歐洲文明以及禮節在哪裡?

在去Bursa的三個小時車上,坐完接駁車,我才發覺頭大,因為幫我提行李的小弟都不會說英文,我完全聽不懂,上了大車,我坐在兩個老女人中間。一開始我右邊的老太太根本不理我,我也ok,靜靜的吃完我的東西,接著他試圖要跟我說些什麼。我什麼都聽不懂,但是可以猜測她大概是問我從哪裡來,為什麼要去Bursa,等等。我說什麼她也都聽不懂,一副雞同鴨講的慘狀。正當我們兩個都開始放棄時,我開始用相機跟她說我怎麼來的。至少我們在聽不懂的當中,尋求默契。

中途車子開上渡輪,大家下車休息,我乖乖地跟在她兩人後面,我找出我的大背包,拿出我的地圖,試圖告訴她們可以用圖示說明的東西,說明我是從台灣來的。最後我放棄,求助我身旁的一個大鬍子,問他會不會講英文,結果好玩的是,他居然會,而且他為我翻譯了很多。他正開車到bol做夏天磨托船的生意。

在坐完船的路上,兩個老太太開始對我超級好,也許是對我傻人的愚勇感到敬佩吧。他們一共削了三顆頻果,一根小黃瓜,以及很多糖果給我吃。我就像乖孫子一樣,只能一直吃,一直裝乖,一直微笑。老太太開始對我show她的東西,包括,她很漂亮的頭巾,繡著漂亮的黃花,紅花以及綠草還有念可蘭經的counter,真是有趣。我一直在如果AIESEC沒有在公車站接我,我是不是應該跟老太太回家。不過anyway,AIESEC有來接我。

就這樣,我到達了我的城市,Bursa。

圖片說明:我日後最好的朋友。後排左起:Tugba, Serdar, Diego(Spain) 前排:Mine, Ozlem

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距離出發至土耳其,不到兩週了,該交代的事情差不多辦妥;
保險買了;機票買了;
準備打包的清單陸續列出;
心情也慢慢調整好,準備面對一句話也聽不懂的聾子世界;
面對發行電子報,卻一直遲遲無法跨出重要的第一步
一直在想,怎麼作一個正式的開始呢?到底要從哪裡開始呢?

先帶大家來到土耳其駐台辦事處吧
每次出國,一定是要有簽證才能整裝出發吧?我挑中黃道吉日,整裝前往土耳其駐台灣辦事處,
沒想到趕在11點50分到達辦公室門口,居然吃了個閉門羹。大門深鎖,無法進入。當場心中暗暗叫罵,
一邊怪自己每次都拖到快來不及,另一方面,土耳其人也太混了吧,不能因為業務不佳,門可羅雀,就理所當然提早吃中飯啊?
乖乖地等到下午兩點,再次造訪辦公室,門還是關著的。這才摸摸鼻子,發現原來要摁電鈴啊?
進門之後,我乖乖地詢問土耳其要求我辦理的trainee VISA。果然,如我所料,辦事員阿姨沒聽過什麼trainee VISA,就找一個台土混血的大哥哥來關切。他說他們只有working VISA,但是我就一直堅持對方要我們辦的是trainee VISA。裝無辜,我最會了!果然,如我所料,他也搔搔頭腦,又回到辦公室,嘰嘰咕咕地。大概是請示他的老闆吧?

又過了一會兒?一個外國老頭子走出來。大哥哥說是他們的Ambassador,挖!他可是在台灣唯一可以代表土耳其的那個人!那當然起立列隊致敬!老爺爺蹙眉問到:Do you know what AIESEC is? 因為我是申請AIESEC的交換計畫去土耳其的,
大學四年也都是AIESEC的成員。要解釋什麼是AIESEC?那還不簡單?!
所以,我就機哩挖拉介紹,AIESEC是全球最大國際學生組織啊,87個國家都有AIESEC啊,
我們的願景是和平及人類潛能的達成(Peace and Fulfilment of Humankind's Potential)
,透過交換計畫….沒想到老爺爺打斷我:『no, no, no….』我嚇了一跳?怎麼?我說不對嗎?
他居然用法文:『Association Internationale des Etudiants en Sciences Economiques et Commerciales』

三條線!出現在我的臉上,充滿驚訝及尷尬。他居然說出AIESEC的法文全名,連我都說不大出來的。
AIESEC是那一段法文的縮寫。這是AIESECer的暗號嗎?我瞬間冰雪聰明地知道,老爺爺以前是AIESEC的成員!

太妙了吧!

遇到老前輩,我馬上給他拉關係,說我也是AIESEC的啊,然後問他,他在AIESEC是幾年前的事了?
可愛的老爺爺居然說,這個問題太尷尬了,他也不記得了,總有三、四十年了吧!
接著,可敬的土耳其大使,非常專業的跟我解釋:也許是因為台灣與土耳其沒有正式外交關係,所以,
我如果在土耳其待超過一個月,就一定要辦工作VISA,他抄了土耳其prime minister的地址,親切地告訴我,
土耳其那邊要先幫我申請工作簽證,他們這邊才能作業。

最後,大使居然還非常親切地送我下樓,因為他要買口香糖吃。

我真的很感動,在這麼忙碌的準備過程中,在台灣,遇到第一個土耳其人,還是社團的老前輩。
這似乎對我的神秘土耳其之旅開啟美好的一頁。這次申請簽證,應該算是失敗的。我想,下次再去辦理土耳其簽證的時候,
我應該會跟他要簽名照+合影留念吧,再送他口香糖囉。

就用這篇『土耳其駐台辦事處一遊』遊記,作為我創刊紀念吧。

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